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Right now we are eating in Seattle, Washington.

     
 
 

Tuesday
June

29

2004
12:02 AM



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Random Notes, June 29, 2004 — It looks like the French Laundry is open again. (Free registration required.) I guess Thomas Keller is finally done opening Per Se in New York City.

A friend at work is spending a few weeks in Singapore. Please bring me back some Tim Tams.

I'm always fascinated when recipes call for wrapping everything up in tinfoil, or parchment paper, or clay, or whatever. Something about packaging up the food while you cook it is neat to me. The Los Angeles Times (free registration required) has some thoughts and recipes for cooking in parchment paper.

Zagat rated a Brooklyn restaurant unusually highly. And the New York Times (free registration required) decided to write about it. I'm not a big Zagat fan anyway. The numbers (what's a "27"?) don't mean anything to me, and I feel like everyone just plugs for their favorites anyway. I see places that are uninspired scoring raves in Zagat and I know it's not for me.

That said, Frank Bruni, the Times restaurant critic is great. Check out this quote: "She brought my guests and me an appetizer of chanterelle mushrooms that had been sautéed in a white truffle butter and then mixed with creamed corn. It tasted the way a warm bath feels." Writing about food in a way that's both creative as well as effective in conveying flavor is hard. Bruni does both and entertains as well.

Alex forwarded this article from Slate. Maybe I should get a standalone freezer after all.

You can now see what's coming up right on our home page with the "Upcoming Entries" section in the upper right hand corner.

 


     
     
     
     
     
     

 

 

 

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  Garlic has long been credited with providing and prolonging physical strength and was fed to Egyptian slaves building the giant pyramids. Throughout the centuries, its medicinal claims have included cures for toothaches, consumption, open wounds and evil demons. A member of the lily family, garlic is a cousin to leeks, chives, onions and shallots. The edible bulb or "head" grows beneath the ground. This bulb is made up of sections called cloves, each encased in its own parchmentlike membrane. Today's major garlic suppliers include the United States (mainly California, Texas and Louisiana), France, Spain, Italy and Mexico. There are three major types of garlic available in the United States: the white-skinned, strongly flavored American garlic; the Mexican and Italian garlic, both of which have mauve-colored skins and a somewhat milder flavor; and the Paul Bunyanesque, white-skinned elephant garlic (which is not a true garlic, but a relative of the leek), the most mildly flavored of the three. Depending on the variety, cloves of American, Mexican and Italian garlic can range from 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches in length. Elephant garlic (grown mainly in California) has bulbs the size of a small grapefruit, with huge cloves averaging 1 ounce each. It can be purchased through mail order and in some gourmet markets. Green garlic, available occasionally in specialty produce markets, is young garlic before it begins to form cloves. It resembles a baby leek, with a long green top and white bulb, sometimes tinged with pink. The flavor of a baby plant is much softer than that of mature garlic. Fresh garlic is available year-round. Purchase firm, plump bulbs with dry skins. Avoid heads with soft or shriveled cloves, and those stored in the refrigerated section of the produce department. Store fresh garlic in an open container (away from other foods) in a cool, dark place. Properly stored, unbroken bulbs can be kept up to 8 weeks, though they will begin to dry out toward the end of that time. Once broken from the bulb, individual cloves will keep from 3 to 10 days. Garlic is usually peeled before use in recipes. Among the exceptions are roasted garlic bulbs and the famous dish, "chicken with 40 cloves of garlic," in which unpeeled garlic cloves are baked with chicken in a broth until they become sweet and butter-soft. Crushing, chopping, pressing or pureeing garlic releases more of its essential oils and provides a sharper, more assertive flavor than slicing or leaving it whole. Garlic is readily available in forms other than fresh. Dehydrated garlic flakes (sometimes referred to as instant garlic) are slices or bits of garlic that must be reconstituted before using (unless added to a liquid-based dish, such as soup or stew). When dehydrated garlic flakes are ground, the result is garlic powder. Garlic salt is garlic powder blended with salt and a moisture-absorbing agent. Garlic extract and garlic juice are derived from pressed garlic cloves. Though all of these products are convenient, they're a poor flavor substitute for the less expensive, readily available and easy-to-store fresh garlic. One unfortunate side effect of garlic is that, because its essential oils permeate the lung tissue, it remains with the body long after it's been consumed, affecting breath and even skin odor. Chewing chlorophyll tablets or fresh parsley is helpful but, unfortunately, modern-day science has yet to find the perfect antidote for residual garlic odor.  

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